I met Sr. Victor Valdez of Boquillas, Mexico, who I've written about before. He sang Cielito Lindo for me and my son. The winds were howling down through the entrance to Boquillas Canyon.
Sr. Valdez is evidently a threat. When he sees hikers walk down the bluff towards the canyon he wades (or crosses on his rowboat, depending upon the river) to the US side and sings traditional Mexican songs. Sr. Valdez has lived in Boquillas for almost all of his 55+ years and his English is impeccable, but his livelihood was cut off by faceless DHS bureaucrats who only think of the US/Mexico border as a dangerous place, akin to Juarez and Tijuana. Big Bend is a dangerous place, full of rattlesnakes and extraordinary heat, but the people on either side of the border there aren't dangerous. The residents of Boquillas have worked for American mining companies and served American tourists for more than 100 years, then the door was abruptly shut on them in 2002. This is a frontier more than a dangerous border.
For those who want the entire US/Mexico border militarized, it is becoming that way. The U.S. Border Patrol has ramped up dramatically since 2005 when I was out there last. Drive between Uvalde down to Del Rio and west towards Dryden and you will see dozens of white U.S. Border Patrol trucks dragging tires along a rugged dirt track running directly parallel to U.S. 90. Which is pointless because these tracks consist of large pieces of gravel and little sand. Not only is it remote on the US side of the border, it is even more remote on the Mexican side of the border. It would require at least 100+ miles of hiking across harsh desert scrub and canyons to evade the checkpoints. Anyone who attempts to cross here to bypass these checkpoints will likely die.
The US Border Patrol has created a great deal of anxiety for Americans who live in the region, not to mention the increased anxiety amongst visitors. Traveling U.S. 90 to Big Bend now requires three separate U.S. Border Patrol checkpoints: one eastbound between Del Rio and Uvalde, one northbound between Big Bend National Park and Marathon, and one west of Del Rio. These checkpoints are manned by burly guys in their 20s, heavily armed and with K9 units. I very much resent being forced to play 20 Questions when I am 50 miles from the border and have no plans to travel to Mexico.
This is almost verbatim, greatly shortened, west of Del Rio on my way to Big Bend. Anglo border patrol agent, a husky, handsome young guy who sounds like he's from someplace like Minnesota, who had a fake grin plastered on his face.
Border Patrol agent, with his hand resting on his holster: "Good morning. Where are you going?This is the third time I've been forced to play 20 Questions at this particular checkpoint. The other two checkpoints are also staffed by intimidating Border Patrol officers, but they are much more succinct and realistic as they peer inside the car. "Good afternoon, please state your citizenship. (U.S.) Have you been to Mexico? (No) Thank you, have a safe trip."
Me: "My son and I are going to Big Bend."
Border Patrol agent: "Where are you from?"
Me: "Katy, Texas."
Border Patrol agent: "Never heard of it. (The agent is full of crap, he's seen many people from Katy come through to Big Bend.)
Me: "It's a suburb of Houston."
Border Patrol agent: "Is that a hybrid?"
Me: "Yes, it's a Toyota Prius."
Border Patrol agent: "Please state your citizenship."
Me: "U.S."
Border Patrol agent: "What are you planning to do in Big Bend?" (He can see the camping gear as he's peering through the window.)
Me: "My son and I are going camping and horseback riding."
Border Patrol agent: "Are there any other people in your car besides you and your son?"
Me: (choking back disbelief that I could hide someone else in a Prius) "No."
Border Patrol agent: "Where are you from?"
Me: "Katy, Texas."
Border Patrol agent: "Thank you, drive safely."
These checkpoints, many miles inside the US border, are creating anxiety in travelers and have turned a lot of people off. A number of business owners in the Big Bend region told me that the Border Patrol has damaged tourism, and I can see why. The other day I told myself I'll never come back as long as I have to justify my vacation plans even though I am in my own damn country. Then I met Mr. Ring Huggins.
Ring runs a curio shop called Many Stones in Study Butte, immediately west of the park. I stopped in to buy some souvenirs and got to talking with him about my experiences with the recent regulations, warning notices about dangerous Mexicans selling trinkets, and the increased border security. Ring, like every other businessperson I spoke with in the Big Bend region, says that business has suffered since Washington officials noticed this quiet spot on the border.To my fellow Texans who love Big Bend as much as I do: Keep going out there and drop a wad of cash on the local businesses, and write to your elected officials and demand that they adopt a realistic approach to border security in this part of the country. I'd hate to see Hot Springs sealed off behind a wall because it is 20 feet from Mexico.
12 comments:
Great post. Just one question, can you explain the "dragging tires" thing? I have no clue what this means.
Yes, their theory is that illegals will leave footprints as they cross the track. Like I said, it's almost all rocky gravel, so I don't follow their logic. That's government efficiency.
Ah, got it.
Next time a Border Agent starts with the questions, tell him to f'off. If he gives you any crap, tell him *I* told you to tell him that.
He'll back off
I'm still going to Big Bend sometime. I love answering those stupid questions at checkpoints. For example, when they ask "Where are you from?" I answer "Your worst nightmare!!!"
Just kidding.
Anyway, those questions are about as useful as the two questions that were asked by the airlines before 9/11.
Lou, it's like the TSA shaking down grandma at the airport - they have to do it to everyone so that they aren't charged with profiling. It doesn't make any sense.
They have checkpoints going to Big Bend? I would have thought that they would concentrate on people coming from Big Bend.
Don
Maybe they thought you were running guns in that Prius. : )
Seriously, I just happened to catch the last part of Janet Napolitano's news conference last night and was amazed that the Texas governor had requested 1000 National Guards.
This was the best news link I could find quickly on yesterday's announcement but it's still not very good. Any thoughts on this, Lou?
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/03/24/eveningnews/main4890543.shtml
Anon, I can't speak for other sectors of the US/Mexico border. It's hard to argue against the stats. It's pretty clear that Mexico's narcowar is spilling into the US. I just don't think it has infected the Big Bend region. Last violence I heard of there was a US soldier shooting a Mexican kid herding his goats on the US side, and that was at least 10 years ago.
Arizona? El Paso? It's pretty clear that the situation is quickly becoming out of control.
Hey Lou,
My boyfriend and I took a long weekend to Big Bend about a month ago. We spent a night in the National Park and did some hiking as well as spend a night in Marfa and Marathon. I have been in Texas since 1979 and am ashamed to say I didn't realize we had such breathtaking scenery. It was a wonderful trip and we will be back. One thing though that was clear and that you really don't understand until you are out there is just how utterly remote it is. We saw the border agents and had to pass a checkpoint. We had to wonder, do they actually do anything out there? Are there really illegals and drug cartels trying to come in down there. I don't think so at least can't be too many. As remote as it is on the Texas side it's far more remote on the Mexican side as I understand it. I know there are big problems on some parts of our border. Seems they could deal with those and leave Big Bend more or less alone.
All of your points are very valid. However, spend some time at Organ Pipe National Park in AZ, and you will find a very different border, and park experience.
Much of it is inaccessible to visitors due to crime, illegal traffic, and habitat destruction. They also had a NP Ranger named Kris Eggle recently killed there by drug smugglers. These aren't just "illegal aliens" trying to cross, but often organized gangs and cartels who use their own people for their criminal ends.
Some of the things happening in other borders are scary, for both Nortenos and Mexicans alike. I strongly detest the procedures currently in place as a citizen, while understanding the efforts at hand. The peace of Big Bend is pricesless, and I hope that the talk of reopening the Border is true, but it will come at a price. Nothing is black and white here.
Dare I mention the many people who wish ill on our country at this time come from a very similar environment, on another continent, and often know how to navigate it far better than Western man?
No easy answers. But do visit BB, and support all you see!
P.S. It is again legal to carry a weapon in our National Parks. Check your laws, and use them.
Ah yes, it is such a simple matter to make deriding statements about our fine young men and women working in our military or border patrol service, while you sit at home eating your nice breakfast. Seems to me the most difficult problem they face is the non-constructive criticism of those who enjoy the all the wonderful aspects of living in this great country so many have died to build and protect. I have nothing but praise for our young men and women who are working to help protect our borders and since I have been going to the Big Bend area to vacation since the early 1960's, I have learned the worst things that have been done to make the experience less enjoyable have been done by private citizens, many with more money than brains!
It is a magnificent place, Mexico has a lot of beautiful places.
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